Prevention of early aging

admin — Tue, 10 Feb 2009 08:30:16 +0000

It is very important to the skin from the outset to maintain and protect. Particularly intense sunlight makes the skin to create.
The extrinsic skin aging can reduce sun exposure by the skin will be low, especially the summer sun-11-15 clock-should be avoided. In this context, an adequate sun protection, and clothing, as well as creams, of particular importance. It is advisable in the summer of creams or lotions with a sun protection factor of 30 to use, so is the received UV dose in the skin by a factor of 30 lower. Even on a regular irradiation in solariums is discouraged. It is not just an older skin, but also skin diseases mostly have their origin in the damage caused by UV radiation have been caused. Important for the preventive measures of skin aging are also a healthy and conscious lifestyle, either by frequent alcohol nor nicotine consumption is included. Stress and sleep deficits should also be avoided because of the melatonin metabolism is also important for a healthy appearance is.
Skin against skin aging
Both sebaceous glands as well as keep the skin slightly acidic, a pH 4-7
The healthy skin may be harmful external influences by the special skin system parry. On the one hand, this is through the skin-lipid barrier and where the protective acid. The skin-lipid barrier usually prevents the evaporation of the body’s own water and prevents dehydration of a prior. As for the skin care is important that only care and cleaning products are used, the pH of the skin do not attack and harm. Also intensive washing action of the skin with soaps and detergents can harm strongly acid sheath. In particular, hot baths and showers to attack the protective barrier, it is also water can then penetrate the skin and it comes to skin Aufquillen individual lots. To Einseifen washing lotions should only be used, the skin-neutral, ie in a pH range from 5 to 6.5 lie.
For the regular care of the skin, there are numerous creams and lotions to buy, it is important that these little preservatives and does not contain alcohol, as these can trigger allergic reactions.
Creams and lotions always contain a water-soluble and a fat phase. The ratio of the two components determines the effect of each drug. So is an “oil in water” emulsion (O / W) with a few Olpartikeln moved. The property of these O / W creams is that it quickly into the skin and passes for a rapid effect provide moisture. These lotions are especially suitable for oily and normal skin. Lotions, water in oil (W / O) consist of a large proportion of lipids and little water. The result of the application is that these creams a return greasy effect, they do not so quickly as O / W creams and may often feel sticky to. W / O emulsions for dry skin are recommended. Even skin oils, which are based on mineral oils, are recommended. They prevent the evaporation of water and thus strengthen the skin barrier. The very high fat creams stabilize the fat content of the skin and are also contrary to the water loss. Deodorants may be the sweat and smell less, because they contain disinfectants that kill germs. However, this can result in the protective acid attack.
Regular sauna visits can be cleaned clogged sebaceous glands, also has this relaxing form of positive effects on the immune system and strengthens the skin’s natural functions.

Skin and hair : prevention is better than cure

admin — Sat, 20 Sep 2008 21:56:55 +0000

Against the aging is not yet a herb grown against the age already. This process is reinforced by various external factors such as smoking or extensive sunbathing.

By UV radiation is the skin collagen scaffold attacked. Even emotional impulses can with age their traces left behind in the face. Pensive people can cross on the forehead trained, cheerful people have crows feet around the eyes and who are often annoyed, gets permanently result for eyebrows. Doctors, different methods are available to age-related changes in the skin to fight. With such beauty problems, botulinum toxin-A injections into the affected areas to help. This substance can wrinkles for about three to six months smooth. A Then a re-injection must be made. Therefore, experts recommend first and foremost an adequate sun protection: In the summer, at lunch time should not be sunbathing and a half hour before going outside, a waterproof cream with high UVB sun protection factor and a broad UVA filter is applied. . Another important measure of protection to premature skin aging to avoid is the non-smoking.

Applied Kinotherapy in the skin

admin — Sat, 20 Sep 2008 18:19:52 +0000

On the basis of Prof. Dr. A. Kligman justified Kinotherapy is a detailed strategy against on premature skin which effect the aging . Components of the strategy are the preservation of the NMF (water, protection against radicals) and the barrier layers of protection against solar radiation and their consequences, the promotion of regenerative processes and reflections on the budget of the fatty skin. The individual skin care for skin damage and skin problem is based on suitable base creams and Kinotherapy agents described. Treatment processes are accompanied by this procedures. The principle of the enlarged “Outside-in-therapy (extended cryotherapy  ) and examples temporarily acting” anti-aging “agents are shown.

This approach against premature skin aging is based on the findings of the Kinotherapy. The Kinotherapy is a new field in the border area between dermatology and cosmetics and has the long-term stabilization of the skin barrier (stratum corneum) to the target. Through the intact skin barrier is the skin from drying as a whole and the intrusion of germs, allergens, irritants, radicals and radiation protection. The protection causes inflammation and other skin problems gradually fade away as the outer shutter through the intact skin barrier be held back.

Obviously, this seemingly simple principle does not solve all problems. Studies by Professor A. Kligman, however, could show that already moistening substances to a high stabilization of the skin barrier and contribute to clinically relevant results . He coined in this context the term “Outside-in Therapy.” In other words: The treatment of the stratum corneum ( “Outside”) with appropriate skin care substances achieved on a lasting similar effects in the epidermis (in) how it knows topically-acting drugs – without side effects. Therefore, it is close to the principle of Kinotherapy to support prevention of skin problems in the cosmetic skin care to be transferred. The prevention of premature skin aging, “anti-aging“, fits in seamlessly with. Especially in the field of “anti-aging” one speaks of “Extended cryotherapy  ” if the horny layer controls appropriate for cosmetic ingredients such as vitamins, non-invasive subsequently re-opened and closed. This can also regenerative processes in areas below the stratum corneum be triggered without affecting the skin. The cosmetics applied Kinotherapy sets with appropriate combination of treatment processes and accompanying measures and is divided as follows

Skin protection 

Support the skin regeneration

Individual treatment of skin problems

Typical “anti-aging” agents

Skin diagnosis – a prerequisite for treatment

Treatment processes

1st Skin protection1.1. Moisturizer

Moisturizer in the skin play a crucial role. They increase skin elasticity and smooth the skin. Approx. 40% of the natural NMF (natural moisturizing factor) is composed of amino acids, not only for the moisture budget of the skin are responsible, but also the osmolytische balance mitbestimmen3), ie different osmotic

pressures in the skin balance. Largely unknown is that the amino acids and urea (urea) NMF of the natural protection against ROS (reactive oxygen species) and thus against radicals darstellen4). An example of the destruction of nitrite, which consists of nitrogen oxide radicals arises, may illustrate this:

Destruction by glycine: H2N-CH2-COOH + NO2 → HO-CH2-COO-+ N2 + H2O

Destruction of Urea: H2N-CO-NH2 + 2 → NO2-CO32-+ 2 N2 + 2 H2O

If the NMF means supplemented by skincare will recommend liposomes as a carrier, because in their membranes phosphatidylcholine contained no foreign substance is. The mechanism of transport is explained below.1.2. Derma membrane structure

The barrier layers of the stratum corneum consist mainly of ceramides, cholesterol and palmitic acid. They are double layers ( “bilayer”) from. By nature offers itself to the skin a composition of the same or similar substances, and also physically bilayer forms. Such systems are commercially available under the name of Derma membrane structure (DMS) became known. They usually contain ceramides, phytosterols (similar to cholesterol) and hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, the chemically bound contains palmitic acid and stearic acid. The ingredients are physiologically and integrate themselves casually into the natural skin balance. One advantage of these systems is their emulsifier, the wash-out “effect of conventional O / W emulsions avoids  and no barrier can trigger disturbances, especially for Atopic very important ist5). The DMS structure under the electron microscope (bar: 500 nm)

3. Sunscreen
Strong solar radiation is doubly a stress for the skin that one of its UV share, on the other by infrared radiation (IR). While it is against UV-share and thus also against melanoma with UV filters to protect, there is against IR radiation except clothing and shadows no protection. There is much work needed clarification, because the infrared radiation is a major factor in premature skin aging. If UV sunscreen filters to be used, they should be in a DMS-matrix be incorporated, however, only apply when they really needed. Ie permanent burdens of the skin by day creams with UV filters are to avoid the formation of vitamin D2 (ergocalciferol) and D3 (cholecalciferol) is not permanently stop.

The sensitivity concerning solar radiation can cream additions of CM-glucan reduced because of this drug zellprotektiv effect. He also unfolded a slightly effect and is responsible for “anti-aging” basis creams with higher fat content suitable.
2nd Support the skin regeneration

2.1. Waiving components
An important prerequisite of Kinotherapy is that the components of the skin in no way affect the regeneration of skin or skin reactions produce. Therefore it is advisable to have the following components entirely renounce:
Perfume substances – the most common allergy triggers in the skin
Preservatives – second allergy triggers
Mineral oils and non-volatile silicones – in high concentrations inhibit the self-regenerating
Emulsifiers – create barrier disruption

2.2. Essential fatty acids
The topical application of essential fatty acids differs fundamentally from the oral route in the liver during the passage mainly arachidonic acid (omega-6) or (omega-3) are formed, inter alia, to continue acting hormone-like prostaglandins, thromboxane, prostacyclin and leukotrienes metabolized will. Atopic with the relatively frequent enzyme defect in the delta-6-Desaturase benefit from the topical treatment with both γ as well as with α-linolenic acid.
α-linolenic acid is also to 25% in oil rosehips contain. Important linoleic acid containing oils are such as grape seed oil and wheat germ. The latter includes 15% barrier active palmitic acid – as well as avocado (about 20%). Avocado has added phytosterols because of its high proportion as all other oils mentioned a high potential for self-protection and regeneration of the skin.

2.3. Carrier for agents to support the Hautregeneration6)
If regeneration supportive ingredients used to hang it from the carrier (Carrier), as an active substance is released. DMS and phosphatidylcholine containing anhydrous Oleogele with DMS components give eingearbeitete ingredients slowly and therefore have a long-term impact, while liposomes (with water-soluble substances) and nanoparticles (with fat-soluble substances) the substances very quickly in the horny layer and underlying layers of skin to distribute. By mixtures of liposomes and nanoparticles can be with DMS concentration-dependent control the release rates. There are also mixed forms of liposomes and nanoparticles ( “Semisomen”).
Moreover, in fact even skin moisture and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in a certain framework set. This is because liposomes and nanoparticles are not as particles penetrate the stratum corneum, but by merging with the barrier layers of the skin alter its composition and temporarily increase the permeability. Schematically, you can use the mechanism as follows imagine:

Under the principle of “Extended cryotherapy “, which in the treatment process is explained, the permeability of the barrier layers by the subsequent application of DMS again reduced.

Liposomes are skincare preparations for the typical manufacturing process usually in a mixture of single and mehrschaliger (multilamellarer) form. The Lamellarität, however, has neither the capacity nor the penetration behavior has an impact, here is accordance with the above-described transport mechanism alone Native phosphatidylcholine concentration of the drug in liposomes decisive.

2.4. Vitamins
The support for the regeneration of the skin most commonly used substances are vitamins and related substances as well as their esters, the enzyme in the skin to be set free. The most important are:
Vitamin A – as acetate in nanoparticles
Vitamin C – as phosphate in liposomes
Vitamin E – as acetate in nanoparticles
Yeast (B vitamins) – in liposomes
Coenzyme Q10 – in nanoparticles
The properties and effects of this in the literature are described in detail. For vitamin C is to complement that in liposomes low concentrations (0.5%) for the activation and collagen tyrosinase inhibition (important for laser treatments!) Can be used. Conventional high-dose, non-liposomal solutions are only keratolytic (10% or more).

2.5. Physical regeneration support
For the skin’s own regeneration plays especially the stimulation of microcirculation a role which should be Kinotherapybegleitend. In the treatment process is mainly to mention the massage, while beyond sports and physiotherapy as well as cold showers play a role. The latter improves skin elasticity, not least through the secretion of adrenal hormones.
3rd Individual treatment of skin problems
Below are the main ingredients listed on the skin at specific indications are used. The aim is to cosmetically seen a supportive prevention and to ensure the skin on a permanent basis to maintain efficient.

Barrier disorders:
Phytosterols – from shea butter or avocado (skin)
Fumaric acid – liposomal (psoriasis)
Aloe vera extract (dry and cracked skin)
Hamamelis extract (dry and cracked skin)
Evening nanoparticles (atopy, dry skin)
Linseed oil-Nano (atopy, dry skin)
Disorders:
Phosphatidylcholine in the form of liposomes, nanoparticles (acne, ichthyosis)
Evening nanoparticles (acne, anti-)
Linseed oil-Nano (acne tarda, anti)
Vitamin A nanoparticles (acne, ichthyosis)
Redness, irritation:
Boswellia nanoparticles (by anti-5-Lipoxygenasehemmung, actinic Keratosen7))
Vitamin K nanoparticles (telangiectasia, rosacea, rosacea)
Echinacea extract (telangiectasia, rosacea, rosacea, sunburn Perioral dermatitis)
Evening nanoparticles (inhibit inflammation)
Linseed oil-Nano (inhibit inflammation)
D-panthenol (stimulate cell proliferation)
CM-glucan (carboxymethyl glucan)
Phosphatidylcholine in living cells for the conversion of ceramide in Sphingomyeline responsible. The increase is then Ceramides of an indicator for cell aging:

4th Typical “anti-aging” agents
These include drugs to understand that a temporary change of skin image (smoothing, wrinkle reduction, etc.) cause. Some of you have some positive effects on the water of the skin, such as peptides and hyaluronic acid. Exemplary are:
Hyaluronic acid (firming)
Parakresse – liposomes (wrinkle reduction through relaxation of the muscle contractions)
Peptides
Palmityl-threonine-lysine-threonine-lysine-serine (influence on collagen synthesis)
Acetyl-glutamic acid glutamic acid-methionine-glutamic acid-arginine-arginine (wrinkle reduction analogous Parakresse)
Green tea (increase microcirculation)
Grape Seed Extract – liposomes (radical scavengers)
Whitening – liposomes (through hyperpigmentation prevention of tyrosinase inhibition)
Phytohormones – such as red clover liposomes (östrogenartige effect; see picture)
Special pigments – optical wrinkle reduction by changing Lichtreflektion8)
5th Diagnostic skin condition for treatment

Requirement for an appropriate “anti-aging” treatment within the meaning of Kinotherapy is the exact coverage of the skin condition. There are different approaches. How can already be achieved through detailed questioning key factors. Modular instruments, including skin moisture, skin, fat, TEWL, elasticity, Hautrauhigkeit, melanin and redness measure could result in a base, through analysis of hormone-genetic data and measurements can still be completed.
The analysis of surveys and the measurement data through an overarching software over a longer period leads to a continuous optimization of treatment. The optimization is in practice through the application of the modular Korneotherapeutika allows the individual to the skin can be adapted.

6th Treatment processes
As noted above based on the penetration of liposomes has been demonstrated, can the skin barrier to selectively cut (transportation) or lock feature (skin) Setting:

This principle can be relaxed in treatment processes integrate. Below is an example of a blemished, dry, older skin:

(a) skin cleansing
Poor preparation liquid foam
(b) peeling
Enzyme Peeling (base: papaya, pineapple); distance after 10 minutes
(c) toning
D-panthenol and a liposome-concentrate ( “empty” liposomes) are preparing the stratum corneum to “cut” before and already supply the skin with a higher dose of linoleic acid.
(d) agents
- Linseed nanoparticles
- Red clover-phytohormones liposomes
- NMF liposomes
The active ingredients are on the facial skin distributed. After confiscating may yet with little avocado easily be massaged and may require curing fashion for temporary capable coverage only.
(e) final
DMS-base cream with a higher fat percentage closes the skin.
(f) home treatment
For the home treatment may also active in the DMS-based creams are interfered. The release is done in this case, depending on the concentration over a longer period. Example of the above skin: DMS-base cream (91%), linseed nanoparticles (5%), vitamin A nanoparticle (2%), Paracress liposomes (2%).

References-

Tabata N, O’Goshi K, Zhen YX, Kligman AM, Tagami H, Biophysical assessment of persistent effects of moisturizers after their daily Applications: Evaluation of cryotherapy , Dermatology 2000; 200:308-313
Luebbe J, Evidence-Based cryotherapy , Dermatology 2000; 200:285-286
Yancey PH, Clark ME, Hand SC, Bowlus RD, Somero GN, Living with Water Stress: Evolution of Osmolytic Systems, Science 1982; 217: 1214-1224
Dröge W, Free Radicals in the Physiological Control of Cell Function, Physiol Rev 2002; 82: 47-95
Lautenschläger H, Membranhaltige barrier creams – such as the skin, thus reducing the protection Cosmetic Practice 2006; 4: 12-14
Lautenschläger H, liposomes, Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (AO Barel, M. Payé and Maibach HI), 155-163, CRC Press, Taylor & Francis Group, Boca Raton 2006
Jabs HU, Actinic keratoses – a common disease, Cosmetic Dermatology 2005; 4: 31-32
Lautenschläger H, perfecting, protected and maintained: Make-up for problem skin, cosmetic practice, 2006; 6: 8-9
Dr. Hans Lautenschläger.

Omaha District UMC » Anti Aging

Prevention of early aging

Skin and hair : prevention is better than cure

Applied Kinotherapy in the skin