Applied Kinotherapy in the skin
This approach against premature skin aging is based on the findings of the Kinotherapy. The Kinotherapy is a new field in the border area between dermatology and cosmetics and has the long-term stabilization of the skin barrier (stratum corneum) to the target. Through the intact skin barrier is the skin from drying as a whole and the intrusion of germs, allergens, irritants, radicals and radiation protection. The protection causes inflammation and other skin problems gradually fade away as the outer shutter through the intact skin barrier be held back.
Obviously, this seemingly simple principle does not solve all problems. Studies by Professor A. Kligman, however, could show that already moistening substances to a high stabilization of the skin barrier and contribute to clinically relevant results . He coined in this context the term “Outside-in Therapy.” In other words: The treatment of the stratum corneum ( “Outside”) with appropriate skin care substances achieved on a lasting similar effects in the epidermis (in) how it knows topically-acting drugs – without side effects. Therefore, it is close to the principle of Kinotherapy to support prevention of skin problems in the cosmetic skin care to be transferred. The prevention of premature skin aging, “anti-aging“, fits in seamlessly with. Especially in the field of “anti-aging” one speaks of “Extended cryotherapy ” if the horny layer controls appropriate for cosmetic ingredients such as vitamins, non-invasive subsequently re-opened and closed. This can also regenerative processes in areas below the stratum corneum be triggered without affecting the skin. The cosmetics applied Kinotherapy sets with appropriate combination of treatment processes and accompanying measures and is divided as follows
Skin protection
Support the skin regeneration
Individual treatment of skin problems
Typical “anti-aging” agents
Skin diagnosis – a prerequisite for treatment
Treatment processes
1st Skin protection1.1. Moisturizer
Moisturizer in the skin play a crucial role. They increase skin elasticity and smooth the skin. Approx. 40% of the natural NMF (natural moisturizing factor) is composed of amino acids, not only for the moisture budget of the skin are responsible, but also the osmolytische balance mitbestimmen3), ie different osmotic
Destruction by glycine: H2N-CH2-COOH + NO2 → HO-CH2-COO-+ N2 + H2O
Destruction of Urea: H2N-CO-NH2 + 2 → NO2-CO32-+ 2 N2 + 2 H2O
If the NMF means supplemented by skincare will recommend liposomes as a carrier, because in their membranes phosphatidylcholine contained no foreign substance is. The mechanism of transport is explained below.1.2. Derma membrane structure
The barrier layers of the stratum corneum consist mainly of ceramides, cholesterol and palmitic acid. They are double layers ( “bilayer”) from. By nature offers itself to the skin a composition of the same or similar substances, and also physically bilayer forms. Such systems are commercially available under the name of Derma membrane structure (DMS) became known. They usually contain ceramides, phytosterols (similar to cholesterol) and hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, the chemically bound contains palmitic acid and stearic acid. The ingredients are physiologically and integrate themselves casually into the natural skin balance. One advantage of these systems is their emulsifier, the wash-out “effect of conventional O / W emulsions avoids and no barrier can trigger disturbances, especially for Atopic very important ist5). The DMS structure under the electron microscope (bar: 500 nm)
3. Sunscreen
Strong solar radiation is doubly a stress for the skin that one of its UV share, on the other by infrared radiation (IR). While it is against UV-share and thus also against melanoma with UV filters to protect, there is against IR radiation except clothing and shadows no protection. There is much work needed clarification, because the infrared radiation is a major factor in premature skin aging. If UV sunscreen filters to be used, they should be in a DMS-matrix be incorporated, however, only apply when they really needed. Ie permanent burdens of the skin by day creams with UV filters are to avoid the formation of vitamin D2 (ergocalciferol) and D3 (cholecalciferol) is not permanently stop.
The sensitivity concerning solar radiation can cream additions of CM-glucan reduced because of this drug zellprotektiv effect. He also unfolded a slightly effect and is responsible for “anti-aging” basis creams with higher fat content suitable.
2nd Support the skin regeneration
An important prerequisite of Kinotherapy is that the components of the skin in no way affect the regeneration of skin or skin reactions produce. Therefore it is advisable to have the following components entirely renounce:
Perfume substances – the most common allergy triggers in the skin
Preservatives – second allergy triggers
Mineral oils and non-volatile silicones – in high concentrations inhibit the self-regenerating
Emulsifiers – create barrier disruption
2.2. Essential fatty acids
The topical application of essential fatty acids differs fundamentally from the oral route in the liver during the passage mainly arachidonic acid (omega-6) or (omega-3) are formed, inter alia, to continue acting hormone-like prostaglandins, thromboxane, prostacyclin and leukotrienes metabolized will. Atopic with the relatively frequent enzyme defect in the delta-6-Desaturase benefit from the topical treatment with both γ as well as with α-linolenic acid.
α-linolenic acid is also to 25% in oil rosehips contain. Important linoleic acid containing oils are such as grape seed oil and wheat germ. The latter includes 15% barrier active palmitic acid – as well as avocado (about 20%). Avocado has added phytosterols because of its high proportion as all other oils mentioned a high potential for self-protection and regeneration of the skin.
2.3. Carrier for agents to support the Hautregeneration6)
If regeneration supportive ingredients used to hang it from the carrier (Carrier), as an active substance is released. DMS and phosphatidylcholine containing anhydrous Oleogele with DMS components give eingearbeitete ingredients slowly and therefore have a long-term impact, while liposomes (with water-soluble substances) and nanoparticles (with fat-soluble substances) the substances very quickly in the horny layer and underlying layers of skin to distribute. By mixtures of liposomes and nanoparticles can be with DMS concentration-dependent control the release rates. There are also mixed forms of liposomes and nanoparticles ( “Semisomen”).
Moreover, in fact even skin moisture and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in a certain framework set. This is because liposomes and nanoparticles are not as particles penetrate the stratum corneum, but by merging with the barrier layers of the skin alter its composition and temporarily increase the permeability. Schematically, you can use the mechanism as follows imagine:
Under the principle of “Extended cryotherapy “, which in the treatment process is explained, the permeability of the barrier layers by the subsequent application of DMS again reduced.
Liposomes are skincare preparations for the typical manufacturing process usually in a mixture of single and mehrschaliger (multilamellarer) form. The Lamellarität, however, has neither the capacity nor the penetration behavior has an impact, here is accordance with the above-described transport mechanism alone Native phosphatidylcholine concentration of the drug in liposomes decisive.
2.4. Vitamins
The support for the regeneration of the skin most commonly used substances are vitamins and related substances as well as their esters, the enzyme in the skin to be set free. The most important are:
Vitamin A – as acetate in nanoparticles
Vitamin C – as phosphate in liposomes
Vitamin E – as acetate in nanoparticles
Yeast (B vitamins) – in liposomes
Coenzyme Q10 – in nanoparticles
The properties and effects of this in the literature are described in detail. For vitamin C is to complement that in liposomes low concentrations (0.5%) for the activation and collagen tyrosinase inhibition (important for laser treatments!) Can be used. Conventional high-dose, non-liposomal solutions are only keratolytic (10% or more).
2.5. Physical regeneration support
For the skin’s own regeneration plays especially the stimulation of microcirculation a role which should be Kinotherapybegleitend. In the treatment process is mainly to mention the massage, while beyond sports and physiotherapy as well as cold showers play a role. The latter improves skin elasticity, not least through the secretion of adrenal hormones.
3rd Individual treatment of skin problems
Below are the main ingredients listed on the skin at specific indications are used. The aim is to cosmetically seen a supportive prevention and to ensure the skin on a permanent basis to maintain efficient.
Barrier disorders:
Phytosterols – from shea butter or avocado (skin)
Fumaric acid – liposomal (psoriasis)
Aloe vera extract (dry and cracked skin)
Hamamelis extract (dry and cracked skin)
Evening nanoparticles (atopy, dry skin)
Linseed oil-Nano (atopy, dry skin)
Disorders:
Phosphatidylcholine in the form of liposomes, nanoparticles (acne, ichthyosis)
Evening nanoparticles (acne, anti-)
Linseed oil-Nano (acne tarda, anti)
Vitamin A nanoparticles (acne, ichthyosis)
Redness, irritation:
Boswellia nanoparticles (by anti-5-Lipoxygenasehemmung, actinic Keratosen7))
Vitamin K nanoparticles (telangiectasia, rosacea, rosacea)
Echinacea extract (telangiectasia, rosacea, rosacea, sunburn Perioral dermatitis)
Evening nanoparticles (inhibit inflammation)
Linseed oil-Nano (inhibit inflammation)
D-panthenol (stimulate cell proliferation)
CM-glucan (carboxymethyl glucan)
Phosphatidylcholine in living cells for the conversion of ceramide in Sphingomyeline responsible. The increase is then Ceramides of an indicator for cell aging:
4th Typical “anti-aging” agents
These include drugs to understand that a temporary change of skin image (smoothing, wrinkle reduction, etc.) cause. Some of you have some positive effects on the water of the skin, such as peptides and hyaluronic acid. Exemplary are:
Hyaluronic acid (firming)
Parakresse – liposomes (wrinkle reduction through relaxation of the muscle contractions)
Peptides
Palmityl-threonine-lysine-threonine-lysine-serine (influence on collagen synthesis)
Acetyl-glutamic acid glutamic acid-methionine-glutamic acid-arginine-arginine (wrinkle reduction analogous Parakresse)
Green tea (increase microcirculation)
Grape Seed Extract – liposomes (radical scavengers)
Whitening – liposomes (through hyperpigmentation prevention of tyrosinase inhibition)
Phytohormones – such as red clover liposomes (östrogenartige effect; see picture)
Special pigments – optical wrinkle reduction by changing Lichtreflektion8)
5th Diagnostic skin condition for treatment
Requirement for an appropriate “anti-aging” treatment within the meaning of Kinotherapy is the exact coverage of the skin condition. There are different approaches. How can already be achieved through detailed questioning key factors. Modular instruments, including skin moisture, skin, fat, TEWL, elasticity, Hautrauhigkeit, melanin and redness measure could result in a base, through analysis of hormone-genetic data and measurements can still be completed.
The analysis of surveys and the measurement data through an overarching software over a longer period leads to a continuous optimization of treatment. The optimization is in practice through the application of the modular Korneotherapeutika allows the individual to the skin can be adapted.
6th Treatment processes
As noted above based on the penetration of liposomes has been demonstrated, can the skin barrier to selectively cut (transportation) or lock feature (skin) Setting:
This principle can be relaxed in treatment processes integrate. Below is an example of a blemished, dry, older skin:
Poor preparation liquid foam
(b) peeling
Enzyme Peeling (base: papaya, pineapple); distance after 10 minutes
(c) toning
D-panthenol and a liposome-concentrate ( “empty” liposomes) are preparing the stratum corneum to “cut” before and already supply the skin with a higher dose of linoleic acid.
(d) agents
- Linseed nanoparticles
- Red clover-phytohormones liposomes
- NMF liposomes
The active ingredients are on the facial skin distributed. After confiscating may yet with little avocado easily be massaged and may require curing fashion for temporary capable coverage only.
(e) final
DMS-base cream with a higher fat percentage closes the skin.
(f) home treatment
For the home treatment may also active in the DMS-based creams are interfered. The release is done in this case, depending on the concentration over a longer period. Example of the above skin: DMS-base cream (91%), linseed nanoparticles (5%), vitamin A nanoparticle (2%), Paracress liposomes (2%).
References-
Tabata N, O’Goshi K, Zhen YX, Kligman AM, Tagami H, Biophysical assessment of persistent effects of moisturizers after their daily Applications: Evaluation of cryotherapy , Dermatology 2000; 200:308-313
Luebbe J, Evidence-Based cryotherapy , Dermatology 2000; 200:285-286
Yancey PH, Clark ME, Hand SC, Bowlus RD, Somero GN, Living with Water Stress: Evolution of Osmolytic Systems, Science 1982; 217: 1214-1224
Dröge W, Free Radicals in the Physiological Control of Cell Function, Physiol Rev 2002; 82: 47-95
Lautenschläger H, Membranhaltige barrier creams – such as the skin, thus reducing the protection Cosmetic Practice 2006; 4: 12-14
Lautenschläger H, liposomes, Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (AO Barel, M. Payé and Maibach HI), 155-163, CRC Press, Taylor & Francis Group, Boca Raton 2006
Jabs HU, Actinic keratoses – a common disease, Cosmetic Dermatology 2005; 4: 31-32
Lautenschläger H, perfecting, protected and maintained: Make-up for problem skin, cosmetic practice, 2006; 6: 8-9
Dr. Hans Lautenschläger.
